The Hospitality of Sardegna

Open-hearted people. I was welcomed with warm smiles and home-cooked meals… and they didn’t even know me! Sardegna. (Sardinia, if you speak English.)

I flew out of Napoli (Naples), with a sight of Vesuvius, to Olbia, in the northeast of Sardegna along the Costa Smeralda – the Emerald Coast. Then I drove a combination of “main roads” and narrow lanes until I arrived in Nulvi. (My friend Hannah later told me that, driving in Sardegna, you go as fast as you can/want, drive wherever you want in the “lanes”… and just don’t hit anyone! I slowly adopted this driving practice during my few days there.)

Hannah bought a place this year in the small town of Nulvi, not far east of Sassari, up in the north of the island of Sardegna, only about 20 minutes on one-lane-ish, winding roads from the northern shore. Nulvi is surrounded by pastoral green fields and grazing sheep. Hannah opened her newly refinished space to me to stay for a few days, and I relished seeing her new life, and meeting her new friends.

The first night, we drove on squiggly roads and ate with a view of the Castelsardo, high on the hill. We had fried calamari and Sardegnan pasta. When we left the restaurant late that night, our eyes did not see, but our phone cameras did clearly register a heart cloud in the sky! (Really!)

For lunch the following day, we drove more narrow, winding roads to “the risotto place”, Le Nuove Ginestre, for over-the-top seafood risotto, while we sat in the sun and the breeze in our sunglasses. “Tutto assolutamente buonissimo!” “Everything absolutely delicious.”

The next day, I drove east to Martis and went to a wonderful, small vineyard and had wine-tasting with Sara and Walter at their Cantina Binzamanna. Even though grape harvest was in full-swing, they welcomed me, chatted, gave me generous tastings of their wines, and we warmly shared stories of farming. I bought wine to contribute to the feast with friends, planned for that evening.

…And a feast it was! Ten long-time, local friends were gathering in Martis and invited Hannah and me to join them. A roaring bonfire was building hot coals in a little courtyard next door, awaiting the grill for sausage and meat cuts. Another courtyard had a pot of oil for deep-frying breaded, fresh porcini mushrooms. Italian chatter, always full of energy, filled the house as we filled our bellies. There was no counting the number of bottles of wine opened and poured. A “salad” of other mushrooms – thinly sliced and dress with home-pressed olive oil and lemon juice – started as an appetizer, eaten between pieces of flatbread. There was much laughter, singing and conversation as these friends relished each other’s company. I felt honored to have been included – “La Signora” – a warm example of Sardegnan hospitality.

The day after our feast, I drove more curly, winding, squiggly roads to the town of Perfugas, to see Dalila for a perceptive and relaxing massage. (A great addition to any vacation.) Floating away from my massage, I returned to the one-lane, winding roads to get to the town of Sedini, meeting more friends of Hannah’s, Liliana and Fabio. They invited me into their home for a lovely lunch prepared by Fabio, and Liliana gave me a walking tour of the town, with its many homes built into the looming rocks.

Leaving Sardegna the next day, Hannah and I stopped for a few minutes at Pozzo Sacro Irru, a holy well and  archeological site from the X – VII centuries B.C. The whole island of Sardegna is dotted with ancient nuraghi, often-cylindrical structures of massive stone blocks. 

One of my favorite restaurants in Milano is owned by a family from Sardegna, the Carlotta Cafè. I’ve been going there on every visit since 2008, and always finish my meals with the classic Sardo digestivo drink, Mirto. How could I not go to a Mirto producer for a tour and taste-test? On the day of my departure, I reserved such a tour at the Sannai Distillery, started and run by Antonio Castelli. He produces artisanal Mirto liqueur, from the leaves and berries of the myrtle shrubs he planted high on a hill, up a rough dirt road, next to his beautiful home, looking out toward the sea. We talked about farming and Mirto production. He served me a small dish of frozen, raw myrtle berries to chew. Then came the sampling of his 5 different Mirto liqueurs, and his Mirto-based Gin. Each was accompanied by proper pairing of cheese, lardo (thin-sliced, aged lard), salami, or chocolate. Antonio was a warm and gracious host.

Upon leaving the Mirto tasting, I drove to the airport in Olbia, arriving very early at 2:00 PM for a 5:30 flight to Milano. There must have been 500 people in the security line (and TSA Pre-Check doesn’t work outside the U.S.) After security, I waited, and waited through the flight delays. Eventually, my flight left at midnight, and we arrived in Milano just before 1:30 AM!! I took a taxi from the airport into town to my apartment for €120, since the train and subway were not operating at that hour. I arrived at the nearest intersection (in this pedestrian-only zone) and was greeted by my Airbnb landlady’s son, at 2:30 in the morning, and was escorted to my apartment. Such kindness.

Yes, the food here in Italy is absolutely fantastic… but I’m always touched by the warm-hearted, dear people that I meet along the way. They are very much a part of what brings me back here every year.