Ahh, Milano… She enchants me still… after 17 years. Though I’ve now been in all 20 regions of Italy, what keeps me going back to Milano? So much stimulation, inspiration, satisfaction. It’s one of the design capitals of the world, so, as a designer, it thrills me that even the curb-cuts are beautiful. There is history, architecture, design, art, culture, cuisine… and companionship. Milano “checks so many boxes” for me and fills me up.
After doing a southern and island tour (Bari, Matera, Napoli, Sardegna), I went back to Milano for two-and-a-half weeks, to enjoy some of my all-time favorite people, places and meals… and to discover new ones. I had a lovely, spacious apartment in a classic, Milanese Casa di Ringhiera, with its interior courtyard and outer balcony walkways. This was in “my neighborhood”, the Zona Navigli – Canal Zone.
I always make a “pilgrimage” to the Trienniale Design Museum, and this year I (finally) discovered the ADI Compasso D’Oro Design Museum. It ignites my mind to see concepts, drawings, mockups and final products of all sorts. Italian design!
For the first time, I heard about, and then traipsed across town to gawk at the Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa (Bones)! This sanctuary is filled wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling with skulls… and femurs stacked like cord wood, creating patterns on the walls.
And every year, when in Milano, I go to the Monumental Cemetery and spend several hours. One could make this cemetery the focus of their studies of architecture, sculpture, typography. It’s a marvel! I went into a section I hadn’t visited before, and discovered some striking graves amidst the more traditional, religious-themed graves.
Of course, I just had to dine at my favorite restaurants, owned by friends: Carlotta Cafè, Trattoria Ponte Rosso and Al Coniglio Bianco.
There is so much I could say about each moment that caught my eye and forced me to stop for a quick capture. But I’m now back in Seattle (Burien, actually) having returned mere days ago, and I’m rushed right back into the flush of life here. So I’m posting random photos here before they slip away into the “I remember when…” moments. Enjoy… and imagine.
You can read my other blog posts about travels in Italy HERE.
(Click on any photo to enlarge it, and then you can progress through the series of photos.)
My kitchen.
My living room.
My bedroom.
The “obstacle course” bathroom.
My little balcony, looking out to the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The enchanting light coming into my bedroom at 4:30 AM.
The Casa di Ringhiera inner balcony walkways of my apartment building.
Wonderful exterior floor tiles outside my apartment door, on the right.
My third-floor balcony (second floor in Italy) is above the large door in the center.
The nighttime view from my balcony.
Naviglio Grande – Grand Canal – as the sun is setting.
The grand canal at night.
My secret utilities markings on the curbs.
Masseroni Meat Market.
Ewa, my first friend in Milan, since 2009.
Vintage dress at the antique market along the canal. (It wouldn’t fit me.)
Edvard Munch painting at his show at the Palazzo Reale.
Ravioli with black truffle. Mmm.
Porcini season.
The pastry shop proprietress, serving me a Babà, rum sauce-soaked sponge cake.
Creative display in the window of the vintage shop.
My sister Patti always wanted to open her own Bakery.
Triennale Design Museum.
Wooden product prototypes at the Triennale Design Museum.
One of many old, wood-lined tram cable cars.
I will never tire of coming up out of the subway and seeing the Duomo.
A figure on the front of the Duomo, the construction of which started in 1386. Hmm. Looks reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty, which was dedicated in 1886.
The Madonna (little Madonna) at the top of the Duomo.
The vending cubby with beer, wine, cannabis and cash.
Marzia.
My breakfast at home, with pear, olive bread, soprassata and parmigiano.
Making it easier for bikes to go up and down the stairways.
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa. Skulls and femurs.
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa. Skulls polished by people putting their fingers through the wire cage over many years.
This woman is straight out of “central casting”.
A beautiful curb cut.
The central building at the Cimitero Monumentale – Monumental Cemetery.
Such a massive, blocky tomb at the cemetery.
One of the most curious tombs at the cemetery, with its science/math-based decorative inscriptions.
A head-turning sculpture on one of the graves at the cemetery, with faces emerging from all surfaces.
An unusual, yet pleasing rendition of a family (of three?).
ADI Design Museum front.
One of the design displays at the ADI Design Museum.
Around town, one finds these markers embedded in the sidewalk, out in front of homes where Jews lived. These two men were arrested in 1944, deported to Mauthausen.
White truffles. That bowlful is worth a small fortune!
Tajarin pasta with white truffle freshly shaved over the top, at Al Coniglio Bianco.
Luciano, Simona and their son, at the Trattoria Ponte Rosso.
With high school classmates Dan and Ron, who happened to be in Milano.
Incredible, artisan gelato flavors.
My favorite, the Carlotta Cafè.
