This is a southern Italy tour for me, to include the regions of Puglia (Bari, Polignano a Mare, Santa Maria di Leuca, Barletta, Cerignola), Basilicata (Matera), Campania (Napoli). Sardegna will follow, then back to Milano in Lombardia. The last time I wandered around southern Italy was in 2011 and I explored wherever I could see and get to by train and foot.

This year my travel companion, David, is joining me. He’s doing the driving, I’m doing the translating. A good exchange! (The driving is pretty stressful and hair-raising, both on the autostrade highways AND in the cities!)

We met up in Bari, and stayed there for 3 nights in a crazy 2-bedroom apartment. My room, up on the roof next to a terrace, was accessed by a very steep, alternate-step staircase. Using the handrail was a must for safety.

In any town, I always seek out the “città vecchia”, the old part of town. I love the pedestrian-oriented, rabbit warren maze of narrow winding passageways. So intriguing and fun to explore.

Bari has its winding maze, its castle, its grand cathedral, and it “orecchiette street” where the older women are lining the streets making and selling the ear-shaped pasta. Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa (with broccoli rabe and anchovies) is the typical Barese dish here, and we had that on the first night.

After Bari, we planned to head south along the “heel”.