Five colored gems – the Cinque Terre – are strung like pearls along the arching neckline of the Ligurian Sea, Italy’s northern “riviera” (See map).With color palettes that include melon, kiwi, citron, honeydew, persimmon and apricot, the five towns are visual jewels and favorites of travelers from all over the world. Four of the towns are tight, steep clusters of colorful cubes rising up from the sea; Corniglia, in the center, sits atop a high, waterside knoll.
Monterosso al Mare harbor.
Vernazza harbor.
Corniglia on the hill.
Manarola at sunset.
Riomaggiore waterside.
Monterosso al Mare (the northernmost of the five), Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore (at the south) are remote, linked by the regional train, and by the Via dell’ Amore, the “Way of Love”, walking path. You can hop on the train, spend just a couple minutes riding to the next town, hop off, explore, hop back on the train, then get off again at the “next pearl on the string”. Or, you can spend the day walking the long path – parts of it paved, parts of it rougher terrain – stopping to explore the towns as you’re passing through.
Via dell’Amore pathway sign.
Via dell’Amore, leaving Riomaggiore heading north toward Manarola in the late afternoon.
Cliffside train route between the five towns, this spot on the way into Manarola.
It was getting late and time to get off the trail! Caught the train below Corniglia and headed back to Monterosso.
The Five Lands, Cinque Terre (CHING-kway TARE-ray, not “TARE-uh“), have been enchanting visitors for years. I visited the area in 2008, arriving in Riomaggiore on my first ever, full day in Italy. I couldn’t get enough of simply opening my eyes and seeing. Plus, eating the grilled seafood in the fishing village of Riomaggiore… musing over the town elders in their heavy discussions… attempting to lure the many un-lure-able cats… winding my way up, around and through the passages and stairways… sampling the signature sciacchetrá… attempting to order breakfast in my then-modest Italian… How could I not be enchanted?
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Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso boat beach.
Monterosso has many walls that are painted with faux details.
A hazy, humid morning in Monterosso.
Pizzeria la Smorfia in Monterosso, was highly recommended.
This grocer in Monterosso was selling typical products of the Cinque Terre.
The inn in Monterosso had a rooftop terrace, surrounded by lemon trees. This is where breakfast was cooked and served-to-order.
Monterosso al Mare: “Beachtown U.S.A.” No wonder the tourists love it!
Another wall in Monterosso with the faux, painted details (and black skivvies).
Vernazza
Dear Vernazza, my visual favorite of the five with its embracing harbor, lively color palette, signage and architectural details. Time passes too quickly with a camera-in-hand in Vernazza.
Vernazza’s harbor beach.
The Blue Marlin Cafe in Vernazza. Ernest Hemmingway ate here?
These decorative Vernazza curtains are a perfect foil to the flaking stucco and scrolled ironwork.
Cats are everywhere in Vernazza and they are NOT inspired by tourists trying to pet them!
Vernazza’s main plaza at the harbor has many colorful cafe umbrellas (in addition to the requisite laundry.)
Weaving through Vernazza’s narrow passages, I looked UP and saw this comforter airing against the wall.
A view into Vernazza’s harbor and main piazza.
Menu in Vernazza: anchovies, salad, pizzas, focaccia bread, sandwiches, breads with chopped topping (bru-SKE-tuh not bru-SHEH-tuh), vegetable torte.
This detail in the train station at Vernazza is a thrilling composition.
Manarola
Manarola at sunset.
Juice press and a stone wall in Manarola.
Colors, sunset light and Little Princess laundry in Manarola.
This way to the train and a glass of wine along the Via dell’Amore in Manarola.
Evening light is waning at the waterside cafe in Manarola.
Riomaggiore
This small town is the fishing village of the five, less touristic than Monterosso at the north. It’s “tight in”, clutching its narrow water access and ensuring fitness with its high and narrow stairways and passages.
Fishing boats and floats are essential to Riomaggiore’s livelihood.
You’d better have “packed light” when you come to Riomaggiore in the Cinque Terre!
Riomaggiore is a working fishing village.
Homes are built on the upended, striated rocks of Riomaggiore’s little harbor.
THE business to be in is that of “green paint and shutter seller” in the Cinque Terre!
This small piazza in Riomaggiore is one of the play areas for local children.
This woman rests near the door of the meat market in Riomaggiore. Note the beaded door curtain, which, for the most part, prevents the flies from entering, yet allows fresh air and customers to come in.
Up, up, up. In a community like Riomaggiore, stacked so tightly on a steep slope, staircases like this wind throughout the town.
A favorite menu in Riomaggiore.
Not quite stairs, not quite simply a slope, this stepped ramp in Riomaggiore is reminiscent of the “Cordonata” stepped ramp, designed by Michelangelo c. 1537 in Rome at the Piazza del Campidoglio.
How can one not be enchanted by this vision of Riomaggiore on a hot summer day? But I think those colors would also be delicious as they blaze through fog and rain, too!