by Maureen | Oct 20, 2024 | Apartment, Blog, Church, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Food!, Introspection, Italy, Milano - Milan
Ahh, Milano… She enchants me still… after 17 years. Though I’ve now been in all 20 regions of Italy, what keeps me going back to Milano? So much stimulation, inspiration, satisfaction. It’s one of the design capitals of the world, so, as a designer, it thrills me that even the curb-cuts are beautiful. There is history, architecture, design, art, culture, cuisine… and companionship. Milano “checks so many boxes” for me and fills me up.
After doing a southern and island tour (Bari, Matera, Napoli, Sardegna), I went back to Milano for two-and-a-half weeks, to enjoy some of my all-time favorite people, places and meals… and to discover new ones. I had a lovely, spacious apartment in a classic, Milanese Casa di Ringhiera, with its interior courtyard and outer balcony walkways. This was in “my neighborhood”, the Zona Navigli – Canal Zone.
I always make a “pilgrimage” to the Trienniale Design Museum, and this year I (finally) discovered the ADI Compasso D’Oro Design Museum. It ignites my mind to see concepts, drawings, mockups and final products of all sorts. Italian design!
For the first time, I heard about, and then traipsed across town to gawk at the Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa (Bones)! This sanctuary is filled wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling with skulls… and femurs stacked like cord wood, creating patterns on the walls.
And every year, when in Milano, I go to the Monumental Cemetery and spend several hours. One could make this cemetery the focus of their studies of architecture, sculpture, typography. It’s a marvel! I went into a section I hadn’t visited before, and discovered some striking graves amidst the more traditional, religious-themed graves.
Of course, I just had to dine at my favorite restaurants, owned by friends: Carlotta Cafè, Trattoria Ponte Rosso and Al Coniglio Bianco.
There is so much I could say about each moment that caught my eye and forced me to stop for a quick capture. But I’m now back in Seattle (Burien, actually) having returned mere days ago, and I’m rushed right back into the flush of life here. So I’m posting random photos here before they slip away into the “I remember when…” moments. Enjoy… and imagine.
You can read my other blog posts about travels in Italy HERE.
(Click on any photo to enlarge it, and then you can progress through the series of photos.)
The “obstacle course” bathroom.
My little balcony, looking out to the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie.
The enchanting light coming into my bedroom at 4:30 AM.
The Casa di Ringhiera inner balcony walkways of my apartment building.
Wonderful exterior floor tiles outside my apartment door, on the right.
My third-floor balcony (second floor in Italy) is above the large door in the center.
The nighttime view from my balcony.
Naviglio Grande – Grand Canal – as the sun is setting.
The grand canal at night.
My secret utilities markings on the curbs.
Ewa, my first friend in Milan, since 2009.
Vintage dress at the antique market along the canal. (It wouldn’t fit me.)
Edvard Munch painting at his show at the Palazzo Reale.
Ravioli with black truffle. Mmm.
The pastry shop proprietress, serving me a Babà, rum sauce-soaked sponge cake.
Creative display in the window of the vintage shop.
My sister Patti always wanted to open her own Bakery.
Wooden product prototypes at the Triennale Design Museum.
One of many old, wood-lined tram cable cars.
I will never tire of coming up out of the subway and seeing the Duomo.
A figure on the front of the Duomo, the construction of which started in 1386. Hmm. Looks reminiscent of the Statue of Liberty, which was dedicated in 1886.
The Madonna (little Madonna) at the top of the Duomo.
The vending cubby with beer, wine, cannabis and cash.
My breakfast at home, with pear, olive bread, soprassata and parmigiano.
Making it easier for bikes to go up and down the stairways.
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa. Skulls and femurs.
Sanctuary of San Bernardino alle Ossa. Skulls polished by people putting their fingers through the wire cage over many years.
This woman is straight out of “central casting”.
The central building at the Cimitero Monumentale – Monumental Cemetery.
Such a massive, blocky tomb at the cemetery.
One of the most curious tombs at the cemetery, with its science/math-based decorative inscriptions.
A head-turning sculpture on one of the graves at the cemetery, with faces emerging from all surfaces.
An unusual, yet pleasing rendition of a family (of three?).
One of the design displays at the ADI Design Museum.
Around town, one finds these markers embedded in the sidewalk, out in front of homes where Jews lived. These two men were arrested in 1944, deported to Mauthausen.
White truffles. That bowlful is worth a small fortune!
Tajarin pasta with white truffle freshly shaved over the top, at Al Coniglio Bianco.
Luciano, Simona and their son, at the Trattoria Ponte Rosso.
With high school classmates Dan and Ron, who happened to be in Milano.
Incredible, artisan gelato flavors.
My favorite, the Carlotta Cafè.
Fresh Anchovies at the Carlotta Cafè.
by Maureen | Oct 4, 2024 | Blog, Featured Articles, Food!, Incredible Locations, Italy, Meals, Sardegna - Sardinia
Open-hearted people. I was welcomed with warm smiles and home-cooked meals… and they didn’t even know me! Sardegna. (Sardinia, if you speak English.)
I flew out of Napoli (Naples), with a sight of Vesuvius, to Olbia, in the northeast of Sardegna along the Costa Smeralda – the Emerald Coast. Then I drove a combination of “main roads” and narrow lanes until I arrived in Nulvi. (My friend Hannah later told me that, driving in Sardegna, you go as fast as you can/want, drive wherever you want in the “lanes”… and just don’t hit anyone! I slowly adopted this driving practice during my few days there.)
Hannah bought a place this year in the small town of Nulvi, not far east of Sassari, up in the north of the island of Sardegna, only about 20 minutes on one-lane-ish, winding roads from the northern shore. Nulvi is surrounded by pastoral green fields and grazing sheep. Hannah opened her newly refinished space to me to stay for a few days, and I relished seeing her new life, and meeting her new friends.
The first night, we drove on squiggly roads and ate with a view of the Castelsardo, high on the hill. We had fried calamari and Sardegnan pasta. When we left the restaurant late that night, our eyes did not see, but our phone cameras did clearly register a heart cloud in the sky! (Really!)
For lunch the following day, we drove more narrow, winding roads to “the risotto place”, Le Nuove Ginestre, for over-the-top seafood risotto, while we sat in the sun and the breeze in our sunglasses. “Tutto assolutamente buonissimo!” “Everything absolutely delicious.”
The next day, I drove east to Martis and went to a wonderful, small vineyard and had wine-tasting with Sara and Walter at their Cantina Binzamanna. Even though grape harvest was in full-swing, they welcomed me, chatted, gave me generous tastings of their wines, and we warmly shared stories of farming. I bought wine to contribute to the feast with friends, planned for that evening.
…And a feast it was! Ten long-time, local friends were gathering in Martis and invited Hannah and me to join them. A roaring bonfire was building hot coals in a little courtyard next door, awaiting the grill for sausage and meat cuts. Another courtyard had a pot of oil for deep-frying breaded, fresh porcini mushrooms. Italian chatter, always full of energy, filled the house as we filled our bellies. There was no counting the number of bottles of wine opened and poured. A “salad” of other mushrooms – thinly sliced and dress with home-pressed olive oil and lemon juice – started as an appetizer, eaten between pieces of flatbread. There was much laughter, singing and conversation as these friends relished each other’s company. I felt honored to have been included – “La Signora” – a warm example of Sardegnan hospitality.
The day after our feast, I drove more curly, winding, squiggly roads to the town of Perfugas, to see Dalila for a perceptive and relaxing massage. (A great addition to any vacation.) Floating away from my massage, I returned to the one-lane, winding roads to get to the town of Sedini, meeting more friends of Hannah’s, Liliana and Fabio. They invited me into their home for a lovely lunch prepared by Fabio, and Liliana gave me a walking tour of the town, with its many homes built into the looming rocks.
Leaving Sardegna the next day, Hannah and I stopped for a few minutes at Pozzo Sacro Irru, a holy well and archeological site from the X – VII centuries B.C. The whole island of Sardegna is dotted with ancient nuraghi, often-cylindrical structures of massive stone blocks.
One of my favorite restaurants in Milano is owned by a family from Sardegna, the Carlotta Cafè. I’ve been going there on every visit since 2008, and always finish my meals with the classic Sardo digestivo drink, Mirto. How could I not go to a Mirto producer for a tour and taste-test? On the day of my departure, I reserved such a tour at the Sannai Distillery, started and run by Antonio Castelli. He produces artisanal Mirto liqueur, from the leaves and berries of the myrtle shrubs he planted high on a hill, up a rough dirt road, next to his beautiful home, looking out toward the sea. We talked about farming and Mirto production. He served me a small dish of frozen, raw myrtle berries to chew. Then came the sampling of his 5 different Mirto liqueurs, and his Mirto-based Gin. Each was accompanied by proper pairing of cheese, lardo (thin-sliced, aged lard), salami, or chocolate. Antonio was a warm and gracious host.
Upon leaving the Mirto tasting, I drove to the airport in Olbia, arriving very early at 2:00 PM for a 5:30 flight to Milano. There must have been 500 people in the security line (and TSA Pre-Check doesn’t work outside the U.S.) After security, I waited, and waited through the flight delays. Eventually, my flight left at midnight, and we arrived in Milano just before 1:30 AM!! I took a taxi from the airport into town to my apartment for €120, since the train and subway were not operating at that hour. I arrived at the nearest intersection (in this pedestrian-only zone) and was greeted by my Airbnb landlady’s son, at 2:30 in the morning, and was escorted to my apartment. Such kindness.
Yes, the food here in Italy is absolutely fantastic… but I’m always touched by the warm-hearted, dear people that I meet along the way. They are very much a part of what brings me back here every year.
Flying out of Napoli, with Vesuvius in the distance.
The Island of Sardegna, with Nulvi in the red spot.
Hannah’s home, apartment (above) and gallery (below).
“Welcome to Nulvi, Maureen.”
Nulvi – Church bell tower next to Hannah’s home.
Pastoral lands surrounding Nulvi.
There really WAS this heart-shaped cloud up in the night sky!
Candelieri mural in Nulvi.
Detail from the Candelieri mural.
Candelieri of Nulvi, new and old.
Maureen and Hannah relishing seafood risotto.
Sara and Walter at the Cantina Binzamanna.
Lunch on Hannah’s balcony.
Buffalo salame, Nulvese cheese, wine from Binzamanna.
Grilled meats and sausage.
Salad of thin-sliced mushroom with shaved cheese, dressed with home-pressed olive oil and lemon.
Breaded and deep-fried fresh porcini mushroom.
Friends grilling flat bread stuffed with cheese.
A fraction of the wine corks from the evening.
Affection and good humor.
A dozen long-time friends gathered.
Former prison in the massive stone… now a museum.
At the Pozzo Sacro Irru, holy well.
A rosary over the doorway.
Antonio Castelli of Sannai Mirto Distillery.
Myrtle berries to be harvested at the end of the year.
Frozen myrtle berries to eat.
Olbia – The Sannai product line, and view of the sea.
Olbia – Mirto tasting at Sannai.
Security line in Olbia’s airport.
by Maureen | Jun 15, 2011 | Featured Articles, Food!, Incredible Locations, Journal, Meals, Milano - Milan, People, Photos
Such dear, dear people. I feel so welcomed by Agnese, Ninni, their son Erik and Ninni’s sister Bea. They greeted me so warmly and then said goodbye with hints of visiting Seattle this year!

It was three years ago that I had “Warm Octopus with Potatoes and Olives” for the first time at the Carlotta Café here along the Naviglio Pavese canal in Milano. I’ve been dreaming about it ever since and longed to know how to make it myself. Almost a year ago, on Friday, the day before leaving to return to Seattle, I had hailed a cab to go to the restaurant for an Octopus-cooking lesson. Ninni and Agnese had offered to teach me sometime.
When I arrived, they were closed up tight. I didn’t know they were away on vacation.
Back here in Milano for these two months, I’ve been traveling quite a bit, and have only gone to the Café for one meal, with a big group of friends. With my departure imminent (next week!), I just had to get down there for my Octopus Lesson!
Today was the day. I packed my apron, hopped on my bike and was there in 10 minutes to hang out in the kitchen for the afternoon. I had called ahead and arrived during a quiet lunch hour. Ninni immediately asked his son, Erik, to pour me a glass of prosecco. Bea, (short for Beatrice), Ninni’s sister, works at the restaurant and showed me step by step what I needed to know.
Piovre Tiepida con Patate e Olive
Warm Octopus with Potatoes and Olives
Octopus – previously frozen, thawed. 2.5 – 3 lbs. each.
Have a BIG pot of water boiling and ready. Put the octopus into the boiling water, tentacles up, with two fistfuls of coarse salt. The octopus will cook for an hour to an hour-and-a-half until it has the tenderness of a cooked roast when poked with a 2-tined fork. No other ingredients are added to the water. (No onions, celery, pepper, etc.)

These octopus are bigger than the ones I’ve found at the Pike Place Market in Seattle.

THE OCTOPUS SHOULD BE COOKED AND THEN COOLED THE DAY BEFORE SERVING (or at least earlier in the day). This is a big key toward its tenderness. (Today, to show me the preparation, Bea used octopus that had been cooked yesterday.)
Potatoes – Moist, yellow potatoes, such as a Yukon Gold, are best.
Cook the potatoes ahead of time and let them cool to room temperature. When ready to prepare the dish, peel the potatoes, cut them into chunks and set them aside.
Italian Parsley – Take a handful of Italian Parsley and chop it finely.

Oil/Vinegar Dressing – 1 liter Extra virgin olive oil, about 1/2 cup of red wine vinegar, 1 large clove of garlic, about a Tbsp. of salt. Put all of these ingredients into a deep, narrow mixing jar and use a hand blender (or similar) to pureé it into a smooth dressing. This dressing will suffice for quite a while and can be stored in the fridge for later use.
Olives – Use the very small, distinctive, taggiasche olives (from Liguria).
Assembly – When ready to prepare the meal, take the octopus from the fridge and cut the body/head away from the tentacles and set it aside. If it hasn’t already been cleaned out, at the junction of the body and tentacles is a round sack about the size of a quarter (depending on the size of the Octopus) and the beak, both of which should be removed and thrown away. Cut the tentacles apart from each other up at the thick ends. The skin is NOT peeled off. The thickest part of the tentacle can be cut crosswise if desired. Cut into 1/8″ thick rounds, cutting the whole tentacle, suction cups and all. Take the body/head, like an empty pouch, and peel away the outer skin. Cut into bite-sized pieces.
(The body/head is the rounded, fist-sized piece sitting at the edge of the cutting board in the picture below.)

Depending on the number of people being served, gather octopus chunks, potato chunks and a good handful of olives and place them into a sieve. With a pot of water already boiling on the stove, place the sieve and its contents, into the boiling water. Allow the food to heat for only about 3 or 4 minutes just to warm through.
Remove from the water. Drain well and toss everything into a bowl. Add a handful of chopped parsley and a good glug-glug-glug of the prepared oil/vinegar dressing. Serve with a wedge of lemon, if desired.

Bea finished prepping the octopus, Ninni plated it and gave me a delicious lunch. Out of this world. So very tender. From now on, everyone that comes to my house for dinner will be served octopus.

Surrounded by such kind people: Ninni, Erik, Bea and Agnese

by Maureen | Jul 15, 2010 | Discoveries, Featured Articles, Food!, Journal, Meals, People, Photos
Octopus as tender as a dream, served warm and simply, with potatoes, olives and olive oil. Fish and pasta prepared and presented with an expert hand. Warm-hearted hosts, all family, welcome their guests into an easy, comfortable dining room in their restaurant alongside the Naviglio Pavese canal: Carlotta Café Bar & Restaurant. If you want to eat at all in Milano, EAT HERE.
During my year here, I have eaten at the Carlotta Café 5 times, and each time I have swooned and savored my meal. The fish could not be fresher. The light seasonings could not be more perfected. The preparation of every dish has never been pretentiously grand; it is simple, pure and complete. It’s no wonder I keep going back.
Carlotta Café owners, Ninni and Agnese, have had the restaurant since 1997.

Daughter Carlotta (after whom the restaurant is named) works with her mother Agnese and Chef Erik, in serving the café patrons. Agnese is as attentive and welcoming as one could wish for when out for a nice meal.

Here are a few of the dishes I’ve enjoyed in my times at the restaurant.
(The photos were taken in varying lighting conditions, evening and daytime.)
Pane Carasau, also called “Paper Music”, is a wispy-thin cracker served hot, generously drizzled with a flavorful olive oil and brightened with salt. This bread starts the meal and wakes up the mouth.

The dish that keeps bringing me back for more: Piovra con Patate – Octopus with Potatoes.
I can’t even descibe how delicious it is.

Gamberi Rossi Crudi della Mediterranea – Mediterranean Red Shrimp, served raw – are a delicacy and a gift to the palate.

This shrimp will be splashed with lime and relished.

Spaghetti con Vongole e Bottarga – Spaghetti with clams and grated, dried fish roe.
Bottarga is a southern Italian gourmet specialty.

Branzino Vernaccia con Olive – Baked seabass with olives and olive oil.
Look at how beautiful those filets are. Ninni knows how to handle fish!

Carpaccio di Spada – Thinly sliced, raw swordfish, served with rucola – arugula – and tomato.

Paccheri all’Isolana – Paccheri pasta with tuna, basil and tomato.

Gnocchi con Speck e Rucola – Potato Gnocchi with lightly smoked speck (cured meat somewhat similar to prosciutto), arugula and a creamy sauce.

The Carlotta Café offers a full bar, wine list and caffé. Order an ice-cold bottle of Mirto, a Sardegnan specialty from myrtle leaves and berries, as a digestif to sip after your meal.

The Red Room is the quiet, more intimate room set off from the bar and main dining area.

There’s also a north-facing Terrazo Room with it’s pleasant light.

The café is not in the central hub-bub of town, and unlikely to be found by tourists. It’s not close to a subway stop and, for me without a car or scooter, it would be a long walk on a hot day. So I gladly take a quick cab ride to the restaurant and it is oh-so worth it.
Ninni and Agnese offer a “Cena a Base di Pesce“, dinner based on fish, at an incredibly reasonable price. Make it simple for yourself: order this special dinner and a nice bottle of wine then sit back and enjoy the steady stream of expertly prepared foods that arrive at your table. You will go home happily satisfied. And you, too, will dream about the octopus. (Tell them “Maureen” sent you.)
(Check with them on their current pricing, since it may change.)

Carlotta Café Bar & Restaurant
Alzaia Naviglio Pavese, 274
20142 Milano, Italia
TEL: 02.89546028
E-MAIL: carlottacafe@gmail.com
